"After we left Japan, it felt as if the ocean itself was dead," Macfadyen said.
"We
hardly saw any living things. We saw one whale, sort of rolling
helplessly on the surface with what looked like a big tumour on its
head. It was pretty sickening.
"I've done a lot of miles on the
ocean in my life and I'm used to seeing turtles, dolphins, sharks and
big flurries of feeding birds. But this time, for 3000 nautical miles
there was nothing alive to be seen."
In place of the missing life was garbage in astounding volumes.
"Part
of it was the aftermath of the tsunami that hit Japan a couple of years
ago. The wave came in over the land, picked up an unbelievable load of
stuff and carried it out to sea. And it's still out there, everywhere
you look."
Ivan's brother, Glenn, who boarded at Hawaii for the
run into the United States, marvelled at the "thousands on thousands" of
yellow plastic buoys. The huge tangles of synthetic rope, fishing lines
and nets. Pieces of polystyrene foam by the million. And slicks of oil
and petrol, everywhere.
Countless hundreds of wooden power poles
are out there, snapped off by the killer wave and still trailing their
wires in the middle of the sea.
"In years gone by, when you were becalmed by lack of wind, you'd just start your engine and motor on,"
Ivan said.